Perched up on the hill above the Conwy Valley, near the picture-postcard Betws-y-Coed, Tan-y-Foel is Peter and Janet Pitman's pride and joy. It operates to its own rhythm, and with resonant success.
The drill is dinner only, with Janet's daily-changing menus built around pairs of alternatives at each course, the two desserts supplemented by the option of pedigree Welsh cheeses. She works alone in the kitchen, and the results are evident in the highly personal cooking style that emerges. A spring evening offered either smoked salmon or Cambrian Hills organic belly pork to start, the former served with celeriac remoulande and salsa verde, the latter with sweet chilli relish and minted piccalilli. Main courses are keyed to imaginative wine suggestions, whether for wild sea bass with roasted fennel, asparagus, tomato fondant and a dressing of mozzarella and basil, or loin of Bryn Dowsi lamb, accompanied by sauteed red onions, beluga lentils, a balsamic reduction and hazelnut oil. The sweet tooth can then choose between roasted pistachio pear with caramel sauce and mascarpone ice-cream, or flaked rice pudding with roasted plum and almond puree. Wines are stylistically grouped, from 'crisp fresh fruity whites' to 'rich full bodied reds'. Choices are top-drawer throughout, with Cloudy Bay and Olivier Leflaive appearing on parade with Delas Côte-Rôtie and Fontodi Chianit. House wines open at £19, or £3.50 for a small glass.