High on the hills above the Conwy valley is the seventeenth-century stone farmhouse, its squat outline emerging from behind stunted trees. It has magnificent vistas over Snowdonia to the north-west but, amid all the majesty of the scenery it’s own garden is a modest little patch, with mature fits and topiary to distinguish it. The Pitmans have decorated the place stylishly, with a bamboo floor and light wooden panelling in the tranquil, comfortable dining room. Janet Pitman cooks a daily-changing, fixed-price dinner menu with a pair of alternatives for each course. On a winter menu the choice might be seared gingered tuna with a crisp-fried laverbread in a dressing of black treacle, chilli and sesame seeds, followed by rare-roast loin of Welsh mountain lamb with parsnip puree and winter roots, sauced with port, balsamic and mint. A spring opener that dazzled for imagination and technical proficiency involved interleaving slices of turbot and smoked salmon and grilling them "sabayon-fashion" under a golden veloute sauce. Fish as a main course might be spice-crusted monkfish three pieces of neat mounds of buttered spinach, along with hugely moreish fried aubergine, saffron potatoes, and a tomato and lemon sauce.

The overall feeling of lightness and precision is carried through to desserts, with perhaps backed vanilla custard with a shot glass of spirit-soaked fresh apricot, or finish with Welsh and Continental cheeses. The Pitmans’ daughter Kelly assists with front-of-the-house duties efficiently and charmingly, Wines on the global list are of a universally high standard with meaningful tasting notes to provide guidance. Unusual choices like Seghesio Arneis (£27) from California or an excellent dry German Riesling Spatlese from Burklin-Wolf (£39) add real character. Bottles start at £19 and plenty come in halves.